Review Preview: Franco

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Pommes frites at Franco cost $5 and come in a metal cone rather than a paper cup, with a side of mayo, not ketchup. Otherwise, they're boardwalk fries. I ordered them at the same time I ordered the sweetbreads, and while the sweetbreads blew me away, it was the frites that took me back to the 64th Street Market in Ocean City. There I first realized that food wasn't just taste and energy and a full belly.

New York magazine recently revealed that renowned chef Thomas Keller uses frozen Sysco French fries at his New York restaurant Per Se. Does it really matter? Does anyone really care about humble pommes frites? Find out my take on that question in this week's review of Franco, a new French bistro in Soulard. You can find it here.

-Ian Froeb

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