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Review Preview: Balaban's

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Any talk of iconic St. Louis restaurants must include -- and might even begin with -- Balaban's, which for 35 years has anchored the intersection of Euclid and McPherson in the Central West End. This marks the fourth time this paper has reviewed the restaurant since 1999 alone, and it's a bona fide miracle that (to my knowledge) no stress-crazed Wash. U. med students or embittered line cooks have kidnapped the chef statuette that stands outside the front door.

Is Balaban's, now under the ownership of Brendan Marsden and Harlee Sorkin and with Andy White (formerly of Harvest) in the kitchen, new and improved or just cleaned up? Read my thoughts here.

-Ian Froeb

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