Small Plates: Monday, 6/25

The husband-and-wife team of Dave Owens and Margaret Kelly are leaving Terrene. Owner John McElwain confirmed the news, first reported (as far as I can tell) on Sauce Magazine's Web site, when I spoke with him on the phone Friday. A formal announcement is expected this week.

The New York Times has an excellent story today on the extreme measures being taken by sushi chefs in Japan to compensate for a tuna shortage. (Registration required.)

This is as good a place as any to repeat the recommendation I made a few months ago: Read Charles Clover's The End of the Line. It belongs with The Omnivore's Dilemma and Fast Food Nation on the shelf of food books that will change your life.

Speaking of the Times, last week I recommended an article by restaurant critic Frank Bruni on his love for fatty meats. (If you didn't read it then, tough luck: It's now available only through the paper's paid archive.) As food writer extraordinaire Michael Ruhlman notes on his blog, this prompted quite a few letters to the editor excorciating Bruni for his "unhealthy" lifestyle.

Finally, check out the new food blog Fried Brain Sandwich. Author Jason Clevenger has been one of the regular commenters in these early weeks of Gut Check.

-Ian Froeb


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