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August 2007 Archives

Labor Day

Fri Aug 31, 2007 at 04:49:48 PM

I was going to title this "Reminder: Labor Day," but you probably don't need that reminder.

At any rate, if you can't find something good to eat this weekend, you're just plain lazy.

japanfest.jpg
www.mobot.org

- The Missouri Botanical Garden is hosting the annual Japanese Festival. Jason Toon has the info right here. (Scroll down to the third item.)

- St. Nicholas Orthodox Church is hosting the annual Greek Festival. Alison Sieloff has the details right here.

- I know I'll see you at the Labor Day Bike Show & Barbecue. That's bike as in Harley, not Schwinn. Anna Teekell explains right here.

Of course, you might be planning a Labor Day barbecue yourself. Just look out for that E. coli-infected beef. And spinach.

On that cheery thought, I bid you a happy, safe holiday weekend. Gut Check will return Tuesday.

-Ian Froeb

Category: Events, General
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Cheesesteak Quest: Jersey Mike's Subs

Fri Aug 31, 2007 at 03:21:07 PM

Aaron Proctor may have left St. Louis, but the quest he inspired continues.

A commenter on a previous post suggested Jersey Mike's Subs (8567 Watson Road) in Webster Groves. This is the only St. Louis -- or Missouri, for that matter -- outpost of a New Jersey-based chain. According to its official Web site, Jersey Mike's started in 1956 as a single sandwich shop on the Jersey Shore.

jerseymike.jpg
www.jerseymikes.com

I had "Jersey Mike's Famous Philly." You can order this with beef or chicken. Since we're on a purist's quest, I didn't have a choice. (Not that I would have selected chicken, anyway.) Now that Cheesesteak Quest is nearly two months old and I've seen the damage it's caused to my waistline, I opted for the regular size, which costs $5.95. (The giant size costs $3 more.) The cook grilled it on a flattop behind the main sandwich assembly line.

The roll was on the soft side and unremarkable. The meat, sliced appropriately thin, was tasty, but I wished there had been more. The cheese -- Provolone, I believe, though it wouldn't surprise me to discover a little American was mixed in there -- had melted to just the right consistency and had a nice tang.

The "Famous Philly" comes with both onions and bell peppers, and I think these accounted for the definite note of sweetness the sandwich had. With more meat, I think this sweetness would have been an excellent accent; as it was, I got tired of it.

Still, not a bad cheesesteak at all. On the 0-to-5 scale, I rate it

cheez%20whiz.jpgcheez%20whiz.jpgcheez%20whiz.jpg

In case you're wondering, these are the standings right now:

1. Penn Station
2. Natural Fact Deli*
3. Jersey Mike's
4. Lenny's

(* - More a steak-and-cheese sandwich than a cheesesteak, but awesome.)

The quest continues.

-Ian Froeb

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Various Restaurant Tidbits, Including the Inevitable Update on Red

Fri Aug 31, 2007 at 12:05:08 PM

According to its MySpace page -- somewhere, Mimi Sheraton just shuddered -- Red will have its grand opening on Saturday, September 15.

Red.jpg
photo: Ian Froeb

For those of you who haven't been following the saga: Red is a new Loft District restaurant featuring the unexpected pairing of Eastern European cuisine and the techniques of molecular gastronomy. The grand opening was originally scheduled for early July, and the restaurant was even slated to participate in Downtown Restaurant Week.

Will it make the new date? You know we'll be on the case.

As long as we're on Washington Avenue: In spite of its review (preview?) in the latest issue of a certain other St. Louis publication, the new location of Mosaic at the corner of Washington and 10th Street isn't, um, alive yet. The original location at Lucas Avenue and 11th Street remains open. A location in Kirkwood is also in development.

Finally, in today's Post-Dispatch, Deb Peterson reveals that Lester Miller is planning multiple locations of Lester's Sports Bar & Grill -- though not in St. Louis or even Missouri. You can read my review of Lester's right here.

-Ian Froeb

Category: News, Restaurants
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The Morning Brew: Friday, 8/31

Fri Aug 31, 2007 at 08:58:10 AM

Another recall, this time for beef tainted with E. coli. The suspect meat is already off store shelves, but check your fridge and freezer. (CNN)

wheat.jpg
food.oregonstate.edu

How one major American food company is battling E. coli and other contaminants. (Reuters)

The world's supply of wheat is already suffering from the effects of global warming. And it's only going to get worse. (Time)

Can the norton grape save Missouri's wineries from the devastating effects of this year's freeze? (Post-Dispatch)

-Ian Froeb

Category: Food, News
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The Intersection of Art, Science and Food

Thu Aug 30, 2007 at 02:18:36 PM

Just learned about an intriguing event at East Central College in Union, Missouri. From Monday, September 3, through Friday, September 7, artist Dan Schwarzlose will be presenting Synesthesia, a work in which viewers select sounds, smells, tastes and textures from a "bar." The press material I received talks about edible paper that tastes "like the circus" and "listening to black."

Helping out with the event will be Ben Roche, the molecular-gastronomy-inclined pastry chef at Chicago's highly touted avant-garde restaurant Moto. Schwarzlose and Roche will give a public presentation on Wednesday evening. For more information, visit East Central College's site.

Here's a video of Roche explaining the work that he and chef Homaro Cantu do:

-Ian Froeb

Category: Events, Food
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Reminder: "Farmer's Market" Class

Thu Aug 30, 2007 at 10:57:42 AM

This evening Whole Foods in Brentwood hosts "Flavors from Our Farmer's Market," a class on organic produce in Missouri. Alex Weir has the details right here.

-Ian Froeb

Category: Events, Food
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The Morning Brew: Thursday, 8/30

Thu Aug 30, 2007 at 09:05:15 AM

So last night I had this amazing meal. Really fantastic. But I can't tell you about it yet. Instead, I bring news of microbes. That's right. Today's Morning Brew is all food safety, all the time.

This blogging deal's a bummer sometimes.

salmonella.jpg
www.livescience.com

Spinach contaminated with Salmonella. The good news: No one's fallen ill. To the right, you see Salmonella attacking human cells. (AP)

How companies are reacting to decreasing public confidence in the safety of their food products. (Dow Jones)

Are you actually safer eating fast food? The statistics say yes. Maybe. Or something. (MarketWatch)

-Ian Froeb

Category: Food, News
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FDA and FTC Tell Monsanto to Quit Bellyaching

Wed Aug 29, 2007 at 06:00:14 PM

From the files of STLog:

How do you say "shove it" in Bureaucratese?

Two letters to Creve Coeur-based Monsanto -- one from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, the other from the Federal Trade Commission, ought to give you an idea.

FDA.jpg FTC.jpg

Earlier this year Monsanto petitioned the two federal agencies to bitch-slap milk producers who have made "deceptive" claims that say or imply dastardly things about Posilac, a.k.a. rBST, a.k.a. recombinant bovine somatotropin, a.k.a. bovine growth hormone.

philg@mit.edu

In an April 4 press release, Monsanto had bemoaned how "certain milk labels and promotions that differentiate milk based on farmer use of POSILAC bovine somatotropin (bST) are misleading to consumers and do not meet the standards set by laws and regulations for either the Federal Trade Commission or the Food and Drug Administration."

I wrote about the chemical company's wadded knickers here and here.

Monsanto's complaints fell into three categories. The first two were relatively straightforward:

• Some producers were labeling their product with claims like "No Hormones" or "No Hormones Added." Such assertions, Monsanto's attorneys pointed out, are patently false, because 1) all milk contains naturally occurring hormones, and 2) the vast majority of milk sold in this country is augmented with vitamin D, which is itself a hormone.

• Other labels said things like "rBST-free," "No Artificial Hormones" and "Does Not Contain Artificial Growth Hormones." Because rBST is administered to cows and not added to milk, no milk can be said to "contain" rBST.

It was the third category of alleged violations that rammed Monsanto's stout ship of argument up against the pointy shoals of common sense. To wit:

• Monsanto attorneys objected to claims such as "Produced Without the Use of Artificial Hormones" and "Farmer's Pledge: No Artificial Growth Hormones."

Conceding that such claims were (probably) accurate, Brian Robert Lowry, Monsanto's associate general counsel for the Office of Policy, Stewardship, Regulation and Government, argued that they should still be prohibited because they imply that dairy farmers who don't use rBST produce more healthful milk than the farmers who do use the Monsanto product.

Wrote Lowry:

Although such claims may be literally true -- provided that the dairy processor can establish that it has followed practices and procedures deemed by experts in the field to be sufficient to ensure that the milk is in fact produced by non-supplemented cows, and that the milk is never commingled with milk produced from rBST supplemented cows either before or during processing -- they are still misleading to consumers because they suggest that the milk is safer, healthier or of a higher quality than other milk.

Writing on behalf of the FDA, chief counsel Sheldon T. Bradshaw expends the first two paragraphs of his four-paragraph letter, dated June 27, reiterating Monsanto's argument and then noting that most of the company's complaints of violations fall under the purview of the FTC, not the FDA. As for "those claims that actually appear on milk labels," Bradshaw notes that his agency issued a pertinent "guidance" way back in 1994 and is not inclined to revise it. Sincerely, etc., etc.

Mary K. Engle, associate director of the FTC's Division of Advertising Practices, is a little more expansive in her August 21 letter to Monsanto and its attorneys, which runs to three pages. But in terms of rhetoric, Engle plods along the same path Bradshaw trod, only more slowly.

Engle cites the FDA's 1994 guidance, noting helpfully that it can be viewed in its entirety online (see for yourself here). And, she says, what goes for labeling applies to advertising: Milk producers are welcome to advertise the fact that they don't use rBST "but should be careful not to suggest a human health or safety benefit."

Further, Engle writes, her staff has examined the labels, ads and websites Monsanto complained about and "did not find any examples of national or significant regional advertising campaigns that made express or implied claims linking rBST to human health and safety." They did find "a few instances of companies making unfounded health and safety claims about rBST" and "conveyed its concerns to the companies," which are now "in the process of revising their marketing materials."

And that, says Engle, is that.

Funny thing, though: You wouldn't know it from Rachel Melcer's story on the Business page of yesterday's St. Louis Post-Dispatch.

But that's a topic for another post.

-Tom Finkel

You can read Tom Finkel's follow-up post on the media's handling of this story right here.

Category:
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Coming Soon: Pappy's Smokehouse BBQ

Wed Aug 29, 2007 at 03:51:46 PM

Mike Emerson shot me an email today to announce that his smoker has been built and "the hogs are gettin' nervous." Emerson is opening Pappy's Smokehouse BBQ at 3106 Olive Street. (Nice to see more development in Midtown, isn't it?) Emerson expects a mid-October debut. I'll keep you posted.

-Ian Froeb

Category: News, Restaurants
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In This Week's Issue

Wed Aug 29, 2007 at 02:32:15 PM

My review of Bissinger's: A Chocolate Experience is now available online. Click here to read.

bissingers.jpg
photo: Jennifer Silverberg

Also in this week's issue: Malcolm dreams of anchovies in sauce gribiche, while Kristie enjoys a glass of Penfolds Thomas Hyland Shiraz at a curiously quiet mall.

-Ian Froeb

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La Salsa

Wed Aug 29, 2007 at 12:15:54 PM

I find chain restaurants endlessly fascinating. Usually mediocre. Sometimes execrable. Rarely worth recommending. But endlessly fascinating. So I present the Chain Gang, a very special subdivision of Gut Check’s blog-exclusive reviews.

La Salsa is the first Missouri outpost of a California-based chain with locations in ten states. It styles itself a “Fresh Mexican Grill” in much the same vein as Chipotle or Qdoba, though La Salsa's menu struck me as slightly broader. Besides the expected burritos, tacos, quesadillas and nachos -- and such questionable hybrids as the chipotle shrimp salad -- it offers enchiladas and taquitos.

burrito.jpg
www.lasalsa.com

Burritos are the lifeblood of these fast-casual Mexican joints. Though the menu features the overstuffed monsters familiar to Chipotle and Qdoba diners, I opted for a somewhat more restrained “Original Gourmet” burrito with carnitas, cheese, guacamole and salsa. Though the cheese was a bland Americanized blend of shredded cheddar and jack, the burrito as a whole was tasty --though very juicy with salsa.

On the other hand, an order of chicken enchiladas was a disaster. In addition to the cheddar-Jack cheese, they came with a thin layer of salsa that had the taste and texture of tomato paste. They did come with a yummy side of refried black beans, but -- as my fiancée likes to point out -- I’m the only person who gets excited about refried beans.

The “Carnitas Guadalajara” tacos feature decent, if not great, meat as well as that same damn cheese blend, grilled vegetables and a bizarre ancho chile sauce that tasted like a generic chipotle mayo.

This is exactly the sort of tweaking that causes purists to decry these sorts of chains. I’m not offended -- you shouldn’t expect authentic at a place like this, no matter their claims. But since La Salsa features a large salsa “bar,” with selections ranging from a scorching habanero to a watery avocado to a sweet, chunky mango, I wonder why they decided to throw the ancho chile sauce on the tacos in the first place.

Of course, if chains let well enough alone, they’d have no reason to exist.

La Salsa
12536 Olive Boulevard
Creve Coeur
314-275-7257
11 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.
$

-Ian Froeb

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The Morning Brew: Wednesday, 8/29

Wed Aug 29, 2007 at 09:05:38 AM

China to the World Health Organization: Our food is safe. Really. (CNN)

paula%20deen.jpg
www.booksamillion.com

How food scientists are using edible films (think Listerine breath strips) to fight pathogens, rot and more. (New York Times)

The entwined relationship of a celebrity chef and the food company who sponsors her. (The Virginian Pilot)

And the story we can't let go: A post-game analysis of the Whole Foods-FTC tilt. (Wall Street Journal - Subscription required.)

-Ian Froeb

Category: Food, News, Shopping
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Review Preview: Bissinger's: A Chocolate Experience

Tue Aug 28, 2007 at 04:00:46 PM

The chocolate pot de crème was like the silkiest custard you’ve ever eaten, and it was served with two chocolate truffles as dense as neutron stars.

Wait. Damn it. I used that neutron star simile too soon.

This week I take a break from the usual restaurant beat and visit the new dessert bar from beloved St. Louis institution Bissinger's. Check back here tomorrow to see what I think.

-Ian Froeb

Category: Food, Restaurants, Reviews
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More on Balaban's Changes

Tue Aug 28, 2007 at 01:56:29 PM

Just spoke with Balaban's owner Brendan Marsden about new executive chef Ed Hines, who replaces Andy White. Hines comes to Balaban's after spending the last five years at Bon Appétit, the dining services department of Washington University. His resume also includes Big Sky Café and the now defunct Route 66 Brewery. Marsden told me Hines likely won't implement any immediate changes to the menu, which underwent a seasonal revision not long ago. Look for Hines to start putting his mark on Balaban's in a couple of months.

-Ian Froeb

Category: News, Restaurants
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The Morning Brew: Tuesday, 8/28

Tue Aug 28, 2007 at 08:19:49 AM

Our long national nightmare is over, my friends: Whole Foods has purchased rival Wild Oats for $565 million. (Washington Post)

A new study finds that the obesity rate in America is, um, growing. The study's authors believe government intervention is necessary. (CNN)

This is the best part of the article:

A senior analyst for The Center for Consumer Freedom, a food industry trade group, said government involvement is not needed. "Obesity is a private issue and we do not need Big Brother wagging his finger at us every time somebody wants to eat a doughnut," said Justin Wilson. "If someone wants to be a little heavier because they enjoy eating food that tastes good, that's a person's personal right."
nachos.jpg
www.drive-in.ws

(You think he's related to the Justin Wilson?)

Speaking of fat: A Maryland company is adding a nutritional supplement to the nacho cheese sauce served in school cafeterias nationwide. (Baltimore Sun)

Finally, a look at the little known agricultural process called radiation breeding, which has influenced everything from grapefruits to fine whiskey. (New York Times)

-Ian Froeb

Category: Food, News, Shopping
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