Review Preview: Niche

One of the great things about reviewing restaurants for Riverfront Times -- as opposed to other publications, that is, in St. Louis or elsewhere -- is that I don't have to assign stars or letter grades or whatever to the places I visit. I find the practice reductive. I mean, it's obvious that, say, the Cherokee Street taqueria La Vallesana isn't a "four-star" dining experience, but as I wrote in my review of La Vallesana ("Cherokee Pastoral," July 11, 2007), if I weigh cost against benefit, it might be my favorite restaurant in town.

On the other hand, a rating system would solve my Niche problem -- albeit simplistically.

What is my Niche problem? And why am I reviewing a restaurant that's been open for two years -- and was already reviewed by this paper? Check back tomorrow to find out.

-Ian Froeb