The Dish: Torta Milanesa at La Michoacana

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To call a torta a sandwich doesn't do it justice. Meat, lettuce, tomato, onion, mayo, avocado, jalapeño and sometimes more spilling out from a giant bolillo roll: The Earl of Sandwich never imagined this. And, yes, fries do come with that. How does the torta from La Michoacana, a year-old Mexican restaurant at 3324 North Lindbergh Boulevard in Bridgeton, measure up? Join me after the jump...

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The milanesa is one of the most common tortas. As in schnitzel, the beef is beaten very thin, breaded and then pan-fried.Though tasty, beef milanesa can be tough -- almost leathery. That isn't a problem at La Michoacana. Not that the beef is tender. Quite the opposite. It is beaten so thin and then fried so crisp that its texture and, to a certain extent, taste is reminiscent of bacon. And that's never a bad thing.

A couple of other things to like about La Michoacana's torta: The mayo isn't glopped onto the bolillo roll, rendering it a soggy mess before you bite into it. Also, the avocado chunks are plump and very fresh; they provide a cooling counterpoint to the sharp, hot jalapeños.

The fries, on the other hand, were mediocre. But you don't judge a Mexican restaurant by its fries.

- Ian Froeb


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