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The Top Ten Dishes of 2008 - #1: The Barbecue at Pappy's Smokehouse

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Mike Emerson does barbecue the proper way: dry. Or, as the takeout menu puts it: "Sauce is on the side 'cause there's nothing to hide." The meats are smoked up to fourteen hours over apple and cherry wood. The pulled pork and the ribs are nothing short of extraordinary. I ordered the pulled pork as a sandwich, and the meat was nearly as soft as the roll on which it was served. The rib meat doesn't fall off the bone. It almost falls off the bone. This is how I like my ribs. The crisp exterior, with the brown-to-red shading of cooked bacon, yields to tender, smoky meat with that simple porky sweetness that must be one of the top five flavors in the known universe.

"Heat Rises" (April 17, 2008)

Pappy's Smokehouse
3106 Olive Street
314-535-4340

- Ian Froeb
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