In this weekend's edition of the Wall Street Journal
, the paper's food writer (and former New York Times restaurant critic) Raymond Sokolov paid a visit to St. Louis
to check out our restaurant scene. Sokolov dined at Niche
and had good things to say about each. Here, he comments on the technique of Niche's Gerard Craft:
Mr. Craft doesn't have a Thomas Keller-size army in his kitchen, but
his dishes, while being tasty and well-cooked, do flaunt a surprising
amount of hand work. I am thinking in particular of fagottini stuffed
with chopped meat from a pork head. The little pastas were in the genre
of beggar's purses, pouches filled with meat and gathered at the top.
The gatherings looked like doughy blossoms from above.
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