FoodWire: Wall Street Journal Visits St. Louis
By Ian Froeb in Restaurant News & Reviews
Mon., Jul. 27 2009 @ 10:31AM
In this weekend's edition of the Wall Street Journal, the paper's food writer (and former New York Times restaurant critic) Raymond Sokolov paid a visit to St. Louis to check out our restaurant scene. Sokolov dined at Niche and Franco and had good things to say about each. Here, he comments on the technique of Niche's Gerard Craft:You can read the entire article online.Mr. Craft doesn't have a Thomas Keller-size army in his kitchen, but his dishes, while being tasty and well-cooked, do flaunt a surprising amount of hand work. I am thinking in particular of fagottini stuffed with chopped meat from a pork head. The little pastas were in the genre of beggar's purses, pouches filled with meat and gathered at the top. The gatherings looked like doughy blossoms from above.
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