Review Preview: Young's Restaurant & Ice Creamery

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By Ian Froeb in Restaurant News & Reviews

Mon., Nov. 23 2009 @ 1:38PM

This week, for a change of pace, I visit Young's Restaurant & Ice Creamery, which has been open (in one form or another) in Valley Park since 1954.

Fried chicken might not inspire as much debate around St. Louis as, say, pizza does, but its many variations have their partisans. I'm fairly ecumenical on the subject. As long as the batter isn't soggy and I can identify which part of the bird I'm eating, I'll happily order any fried chicken and probably love it, from the simple, home-style goodness of Sweetie Pie's to the gnarled batter of Porter's Fried Chicken to my new obsession, peppery "Broasted" pressure-fried chicken at the Pakistani restaurant Café Lazeez.

Young's fried chicken belongs among the area's elite.

Visit the RFT restaurant page late tomorrow afternoon or check back here Wednesday morning to see what I think.