The Top Ten Dishes of 2009 #1: Octopus at Taste by Niche

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Each serving -- each bite -- was a revelation. I didn't know octopus could be this delicious, or this tender. The tentacles are roasted with onion and olive oil before service. They shrink considerably and take on a texture closer to buttery scallops than their own chewy nature. They are served chilled in a light red-pepper oil with slices of potato confit and a garnish of pea shoots with preserved-lemon sauce.

(Since my review was published, the octopus preparation has changed. However, it was merely one of several Taste dishes -- the roasted-radish bruschetta, the Moroccan lamb -- that could have held the top spot. Go.)

-- "Accounting for Taste," October 15, 2009

Taste by Niche
1831 Sidney Street
314-773-7755; website


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