The Top Ten Dishes of 2009 #2: Garlic-Crusted Chicken Breast at Monarch

Chicken dishes are often a sop to the unadventurous diner, but chef Josh Galliano's garlic-crusted chicken breast is a winner -- though here the chicken really plays a supporting role to the garlic. Not only is there the garlic crust, but also a purée of black garlic, which marries the subtle flavor of roasted garlic to the tannic edge of raisins and adds a striking grace note to this dish. This might not sound especially exciting, but it strikes me as Galliano's most impressive creation: Without calling attention to itself -- no clever names, no showy presentation -- it takes the humble pleasure of a roast-chicken dinner and presents it in a new and interesting form.

-- "Josh Almighty," January 22, 2009

Monarch
7401 Manchester Road, Maplewood
314-644-3995; website