This week, I visit Table Three
, which opened in the middle of last year in the new Wildwood Town Center development. Follow after the jump for a sneak preview of what I have to say.
The Main Street address of Wildwood's Table Three might conjure images
of a quaint small town, a Norman Rockwell fantasy of families bustling
among storefront displays of hand-dipped chocolates, leather-bound
books and toy trains. This, however, is 2010, and Wildwood's "Main
Street" is a mixed-use development meant to evoke a small-town feel but
still new enough that you can practically smell the drywall. While
there are some flashes back to the past -- the town opened a new city
hall here -- it's a thoroughly contemporary enterprise: Next door to
Table Three is a sleek-seeming chiropractic center called 212 Degrees
to Wellness, which I mistook for a Bikram-yoga studio until I realized
that, while Bikram aficionados do like it hot, they probably prefer the
temperature to be somewhere south of boiling.
Table Three itself
is certainly no throwback; it's a restaurant in the modern American
vein, pitched somewhere between casual and upscale. You can wear jeans,
watch football at the bar and read the daily specials off a chalkboard,
but that lamb "porterhouse" entrée you ordered, with mashed potatoes
and the vegetable of the day, will set you back $28.
Visit the RFT restaurant page
late tomorrow afternoon or check back here Wednesday morning to see what I think.