Review Preview: Brasserie by Niche
|Brasserie by Niche's onion soup|
For his next trick, Gerard Craft will reinvent French cuisine in St. Louis.Visit the RFT restaurant page late tomorrow afternoon or check back here Wednesday morning to see what I think.
I overstate, though this should be understandable. Over the past five years, first at his flagship restaurant, Niche, and then at Niche's small but mighty offshoot Taste by Niche, Craft has become the most celebrated St. Louis chef -- a Food & Wine magazine "Best New Chef," a James Beard Foundation "Best Chef-Midwest" award nominee -- the vanguard of a new generation committed to the chef- and ingredient-driven restaurant. His success is the result of, if not magic, then a sort of alchemy: He possesses the ideal blend of talent, imagination, determination, ambition and, frankly, cojones.