Con Fusion: A Visit to Thai Pizza Co.

thaipizzaco.jpg
Ian Froeb
The panang curry pizza (?) at Thai Pizza Co.
I last visited Thai Pizza Co. (608 Eastgate Avenue; 314-862-4429) five or maybe six years ago -- before I was the RFT's restaurant critic. Though the restaurant is located right down the street from Gut Check International Headquarters, I rarely think to go there now. When I first ate there, it struck me as a gimmick -- not a bad gimmick, necessarily, but not one that appealed to me. As much as I love both pizza and Thai food, the two of them together didn't do much for me.

Still, Thai Pizza Co. has plugged along for the better part of a decade now, one of the four Thai restaurants in the Delmar Loop that share the same owner, and on a recent afternoon I stopped in to see whether I could find something to appreciate in the combination of pizza and curry.

Pizzas are available as thin- or thick-crust. I ordered the panang curry pizza with a thin crust. I received the panang curry pizza on a thick crust -- though, frankly, it very well could have been something else entirely. Any resemblance to an actual panang curry was entirely coincidental.

The toppings were ground chicken, bell peppers, mushroom and onion, all spread under a layer of melted mozzarella. The menu also includes hot peppers and lime leaves as ingredients, but I found no evidence of either. In truth, aside from a faint coconut-milk sweetness, the flavors bear few hallmarks of Thai cuisine.

The crust reminded me of one of those oven-rising frozen pizzas, weirdly springy and generically flavored. The mozzarella is, well, mozzarella, and there is a reason authentic Thai curries aren't smothered in it.

You could tweak this recipe so that the Thai flavors are more prominent, I suppose, but to my taste, at least, the pizza-ness of a Thai pizza is what renders it pointless. If I want Thai curry, I'll order a Thai curry. At its heart, this pizza is one more example of why fusion cuisine -- or, more precisely, its many bastard children -- has become such a joke.

Location Info

Thai Pizza Co.

608 Eastgate Ave., University City, MO

Category: Restaurant


Sponsor Content

My Voice Nation Help
4 comments
Yeahbaby
Yeahbaby

You have clearly never tried the red curry pizza.

Rudy Moore
Rudy Moore

I go for the pizzas at Thai Pizza occasionally, but my mainstay is the Pad Thai (noodles, not pizza). If there's any of Pat's restaurants (or any other place, really) in the Loop that does outstanding Pad Thai besides Thai Pizza, I'd love to know about it. Wondering because the Pad Thai at Thai Pizza always satisfies, but the one time I got a similar Pad Thai at Thai Nives on Olive, I could actually taste ketchup in it, so I infer that not all Pat's restaurants are the same.

@Eric: having just ate at Gokul in the Loop a few days ago, I don't believe they have a menu like the Page location does, but I could be wrong.

Elena
Elena

The Pad Thai pizza is great. On thin crust with extra peanut sauce on the side. I'm getting hungry just thinking about it.

Eric
Eric

I used to eat at that place sometimes just because it was so cheap. I tried a few of the different pizzas, tried thick and thin crust, and decided that the thick crust was both too much food, and didn't really add anything flavor-wise, and I tried a few of the curry pizzas and found that they mostly just tasted like cheese. Here's my thought: the thin crust is pretty good, as far as I recall, and the chicken satay pizza actually tastes like chicken satays, so I wound up mostly getting the thin-crust chicken satay pizza.

The price on the pizzas has gone up a buck or two since the early 2000s, but it's still a reasonably good deal. If that tiffin from Gokul is still $7 at the new Loop location though, that's certainly some competition.

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...