This week, I visit an interesting new take on what might be the most American of foods, the chicken wing, at O! Wing Plus (10094 Page Avenue, Overland; 314-395-0180)
It can be easy to forget that a chicken wing does, in fact, originate on the body of a chicken. Does anyone still call them chicken wings? They are wings or hot wings or Buffalo wings or that other thing for which Hooters is known. The chicken is irrelevant; it's a vehicle for the sauce. Naked, even, wings taste of frying oil and salt, not meat.
I've always liked wings. They're a fun bar snack (if a bit messy), great paired with a cold lager. But they're never revelatory. To be perfectly frank, the classic Buffalo sauce has never really done much for me: too light on the heat, too heavy on the vinegar.
10094 Page Ave., Overland, MO