Duck a l'Orange at Chez Leon

Canard a l'Orange at Clayton's Chez Leon -- worth a second bite.

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We recently found ourselves supping at Chez Leon, the posh Clayton temple to all things Frenchified. And that, of course, meant chowing down on some duck -- because if there's anything the Frogs know how to cook, it's a nice fat canard.

The presentation on this dish might remind you a bit of Chinese cooking, should you be into Mandarin instead of spicy Szechuan. The duck is served in an orange sauce on a bed of white rice, accompanied by slices of orange and bell pepper. It also comes with asparagus.

We weren't wild about the sauce -- it was a bit too sweet for our tastebuds -- but we had no complaints about our waterfowl. Fat, juicy and oozing flavor, it had been seared to perfection and washed down quite nicely with a glass or two of Pinot Gris. We didn't leave behind a bite.

With its black wallpaper and heavy draperies, Chez Leon can be a bit formal, especially if you're sitting inside. (When we visited, it was cold enough that we had no choice; the patio would have been a better option on a nicer day.)

But our waiter, God bless him, was a doll who had a generous way with a pour. And then, of course, there was that duck breast. We finished the night without complaint: a bit happier, a bit tipsier and probably a bit plumper. Frankly, we still don't understand how French women don't get fat -- but we'll save that worry for another day.