#92: Cuban Sandwich from La Tropicana

By Deborah Hyland Wed., Jun. 1 2011 at 2:00 PM

Categories: Gut Check's 100 Favorite St. Louis Dishes

Deborah Hyland

Once the American palate got a hold of Hispanic foods, we ended up with platter-sized chimichangas, guacamole from a jar and nacho cheese from a can. Fortunately, we also got the Cuban sandwich: a hearty, portable lunch born when Cuban immigrants came to Florida.

Each Sandwich Cubano at La Tropicana (5001 Lindenwood; 314-353-7328) is assembled to order. First, the Cuban bread gets a smear of mustard and of mojito, a house-made, garlicky olive oil sauce. Next, the cook hoists a large tong-full of marinated roast pork, letting just enough of the juices drain so that the bread won't get soggy. The chunks of pork get topped with Swiss cheese, thick slices of ham and an equally thick slab of pickle.

The whole enchilada (metaphorically speaking, of course) goes into a hot sandwich press until the cheese melts and the bread crisps.

According to the print menu, the Sandwich Cubano comes with plantain chips, but it just as often comes with a hearty scoop of rice with beans. Although the sandwich might cost $7.95, it's easily big enough to share.

Tropicana also serves a few Mexican dishes, but there's nary a chimichanga, jarred guacamole nor canned cheese in sight.

Beginning last year, RFT restaurant critic Ian Froeb counted down -- in no particular order -- 100 of his favorite dishes in St. Louis. Now Gut Check has taken up where he left off. Check back frequently as we detail our 100 favorites, and don't hesitate to send us yours, too, either via the comments thread or at tips@riverfronttimes.com.

Previously:

#93: The Prosperity at Ruma's Deli
#94: Cherry Cheese Danish from Missouri Baking Company
#95: Bread Pudding with Whiskey Sauce at Ruth's Chris Steakhouse
#96: Egg Salad Sandwich at Township Grocer
#97: Cheeseburger and Fries (Extra Crispy) at O'Connell's Pub
#98 Mussels & Fries at Brasserie by Niche
#99: Beef Taquitos Mexicanos at El Indio
#100: Spinach Artichoke Dip at Cafe Eau