This week, I visit Taste (4584 Laclede Avenue; 314-361-1200)
to see how the restaurant once known (and acclaimed) as Taste by Niche has adapted to its new location and its new leader, Adam Altnether
The special at Taste this sticky spring evening is simple fare: two slices of toasted bread, each rubbed with garlic and the cut side of a tomato, soaking it in pulp and juice, and then topped with a gossamer slice of house-cured prosciutto. The prosciutto is salty, porky perfection, like silk on the tongue, while the tomato's acidic bite adds a burst of summery brilliance. This is as pure and delicious a thing as you will eat all season.
A simple dish, yes, but for Adam Altnether, Taste's 24-year-old chef, it marks the culmination of more than a year's work.
Visit the RFT restaurant page
late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to see what I think.
4584 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, MO