Better "Better Burgers" at Dave & Tony's Premium Burger Joint

Ian Froeb

A burger with fries at Dave & Tony's Premium Burger Joint

​The Place: Dave & Tony's Premium Burger Joint (12766 Olive Boulevard; 314-439-5100), the homegrown "better burger" restaurant that opened in June in Creve Coeur.

The Lunch: A burger ($5.25) with Gouda ($0.75) and a side of fries ($1.50).

The Verdict: Dave & Tony's offers any number of ways to top your burgers, from one of the restaurant's own creations (like the "St. Louis Burger," with Provel among the toppings) to a build-your-own menu that you fill out yourself and then hand to the cashier.

Overwhelmed by so many choices, I opted for the "Simple Burger" with a slice of smoked Gouda.

Unlike at many other "better burger" restaurants, I was able to order my burger medium-rare. Though mine was cooked closer to medium than medium-rare, it was still a good burger, the best of the "better burger" lot that I've tried so far. The meat, simply seasoned, was juicy and tasted of beef, not the grill.

(A small, but essential touch, especially if you have many toppings: The bun is toasted.)

The French fries are excellent, with the crisp, golden-brown exterior and soft interior that result from proper fry-cooking technique.

Another thing that distinguishes Dave & Tony's from most other "better burger" joints? There is beer. (Wine, too.) If I'd known how much value my 401(k) was going to lose this afternoon, I would've ordered one.