Review Preview: Liluma's Side Door

Ian Froeb

​This week, I visit Liluma's Side Door (236 North Euclid Avenue; 314-361-7771), the restaurant-inside-a-restaurant concept from Jim Fiala. A sneak preview of my review is after the jump.

The entrance to Liluma Side Door is in fact the side door to Jim Fiala's popular Central West End bistro. It opens directly into what used to be Liluma's back dining room. Since August Fiala and Liluma executive chef Brad Watts have operated this space as a restaurant within a restaurant -- a concept not unlike the original Taste by Niche, with small, playful and modestly priced dishes meant to be shared. Liluma Side Door, Fiala told me upon announcing its arrival, is a place "you don't have to think about" but simply may visit for a bite to eat on your way to or from an evening's other activities.

That's the idea, anyway.

On a recent Saturday evening, I strolled up to the side door to find a handwritten note posted there instructing diners to enter the restaurant through Liluma proper.

Visit the RFT restaurant page late this afternoon or check back here tomorrow morning to see what I think.