This week, I visit Diablitos Cantina (3761 Laclede Avenue; 314-644-4430)
, the new Mex/Tex-Mex mashup from the folks who brought you Cafe Ventana
There's a lot to talk about -- and not just the food.
The décor is to kitsch what Soviet socialist realism is to propaganda, which is to say an appalling apotheosis. Dozens of large, punched-tin "star" light fixtures hang together above the front half of the large dining room, suggesting nothing so much as a showroom for large, punched-tin "star" light fixtures. Catholic iconography abounds, including one wall covered with reclaimed church doors of varying shapes and sizes. There is a sort of mirrorball made from a stack of three spinning Day of the Dead-style skulls.
Check back here tomorrow morning to see what I think.
3761 Laclede Ave., St Louis, MO