First Look: The Restaurant at the Cheshire

Categories: First Look
Liz Miller
Pickled local beet salad with toasted pistachio, ruby grapefruit and spiced yogurt.
Classic Cheshire dishes, under the banner "Throw Backs" on its seasonally inspired menu, sit side-by-side with new specialties by Fernandez and Fernandez-Cruz. One "throwback," the prime rib with Yorkshire pudding, for example, now comes with with clotted horseradish cream and potted root vegetables in two cuts: king cut ($45) and house cut ($28). Another is its braised grass-fed beef short ribs, served with roasted garlic mash and baby carrots ($22).

"I want to reincorporate those [former menu items] in a different way," Fernandez says. "We're doing prime rib with a king cut, which is about a pound-and-a-half portion, with Yorkshire pudding, vegetables and horseradish cream. I think people will be excited to see that. Also the fish and chips with thick-cut potatoes, because it's a British style and I want to keep it in that direction. We have short ribs -- simple, but back in the day a hugely successful dish. The burgershire soup was the soup they used to make at the restaurant with a base of ground beef. I made it into the farmer's soup."

Fernandez's influence is evident in the restaurant's new entrees, including Missouri lamb chop and braised shoulder with curried shell beans and black olive relish ($32), herb marinated flap steak with Cheshire potato croquette ($22), Atlantic swordfish with slow-cooked broccoli, dried fig and almond chutney ($28) and Rain Crow Ranch pork chop with bubble and squeak and spiced apple butter ($24). To complement the menus Fernandez and Fernandez-Cruz have developed, the Cheshire is stocked with 1,700 varieties of wine, available at its front-room bar or paired with dishes in its dining room.

"Everything is made in the house, from mayonnaise to crème fraîche to yogurt, all the ice creams and pastas," Fernandez says.

Location Info

The Restaurant at the Cheshire

6300 Clayton Road, St. Louis, MO

Category: Restaurant

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