Review Preview: Hendricks BBQ
This week, I visit Hendrick's BBQ (1200 South Main Street, St. Charles; 636-724-8600), the new barbecue restaurant from Gurpreet Padda and Ami Grimes, the team behind Cafe Ventana, Sanctuaria and Diablitos Cantina.
Mabel Suen The beef brisket, with several sides, at Hendricks BBQ
Look: I can tell you that Hendricks BBQ sprawls across 17,000 square feet on two floors. I can tell you that this restaurant along St. Charles' historic Main Street is also slated to be a live-music venue and a moonshine distillery (neither is operational yet), that it seats some 600, that the upper deck of its patio affords a view of the Katy Trail and the parking lots alongside it so sweeping that even the parking lots look majestic. I can tell you all this and more besides, but nothing conveys the sheer size of the place better than the moment when a server sets a slab of baby-back ribs thicker than your own forearm in front of you, and before your perspective can unskew itself, you think, "Is that all?"
It feels odd to call a cuisine as essentially American as barbecue not merely trendy, but glowing-with-radioactivity hot. Yet if you have any doubts, Hendricks BBQ provides the proof as well as the exclamation point. This is no barbecue joint or shack or roadside stand; it's the sort of showy production that in another decade would have been a corporate-clubby steak house or sleek pan-Asian sushi bar.
Visit Gut Check tomorrow to read my review and see Jennifer Silverberg's slideshow of the restaurant.