Entre's John Perkins on Pop-Up Restaurant #2, A Good Man Is Hard to Find
A Good Man Is Hard to Find, the new pop-up restaurant from the catering firm-mobile kitchen-underground restaurant Entre (360 North Boyle Avenue; 314-632-6754), opens tomorrow, March 14, at 5:30 p.m. A Good Man is Hard to Find follows this winter's pop-up, Le Coq, which Entre chef John Perkins tells Gut Check this morning "surpassed my expectations."
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"It's mainly Southern comfort food," Perkins says of the menu. He decided to settle on a style of cooking, rather than a specific ingredient, as he did with chicken-themed Le Coq, because "we're in that weird part of the growing season" when not much is available.
Also different from Le Coq is the menu structure, which is à la carte instead of prix-fixe.
(Those who enjoy restaurant economics should note that Perkins is running what he terms an "experiment" to test a theory that diners will actually spend more on an à la carte menu than a prix-fixe: "Say up front, 'You're going to spend that much,' it's a big commitment.")
Menu items include "Snacks": deviled eggs with redeye gravy and smoked ramps; fried green tomatoes; and a tasting of country hams from acclaimed purveyors Burger's and Benton's. Among the entrées are chicken and waffles, sorghum-glazed quail and fried catfish. (View the entire menu on the Entre website.)