Critic's Notebook: The Case of the Missing Lobster Roll at Three Flags Tavern

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The Connecticut-style lobster roll at Three Flags Tavern. | Corey Woodruff

It was 12:45 p.m. on a Wednesday at Three Flags Tavern (4940 Southwest Avenue; 314-669-9222) and I had just tried -- and failed -- for a third time to order the lobster roll. The restaurant -- which I have declared possibly the best new opening of 2014 -- does everything so sublimely, but I began to wonder if its lobster roll is poised to be the St. Louis version of Big Foot. Why is it so hard to get my hands on one?

"I thought twelve to twenty sandwiches would be enough to get us through lunch," chef and owner John O'Brien says. "Obviously, I was wrong."

See Also: High-Flying Three Flags Tavern: Is this the best restaurant opening of 2014?

Well, this much is clear: The lobster roll does exist. O'Brien says its elusiveness has to do with the whole philosophy of the restaurant.

"The whole point of doing a small restaurant is so we can do things on a small scale," he explains. "It's a small space, and we don't have a lot of storage. I intended it that way. If you can't store a lot, you can't prepare large quantities of food in advance. It guarantees that everything we serve is as fresh as it can be."

Those lucky enough to experience the tavern's version of the East Coast staple choose between two different styles: Maine or Connecticut. The Maine version is what most people have in mind when they think of lobster rolls -- cold and tossed with mayonnaise.

And then -- miracle of miracles -- on my fourth try, I succeeded. I opted for the warm, buttery Connecticut version. It's worth the hype. Three Flags takes a sweet, poppy seed-flecked bun and stuffs it with a shockingly generous amount of freshly cooked Maine lobster. The meat has been poached in clarified butter, and the bun soaks it up like a sponge. If this isn't enough, the lobster roll is served with a side of the lobster-infused butter (I have no shame and dunked my roll in it) and two small pieces of fried corn (dunked in butter as well).

It was sublime.

The lobster rolls may be fresh, but they are hard to come by. Those hoping to experience this hot commodity should be prepared to arrive early to Three Flags Tavern. And have a plan B -- an easy task at this impeccable eatery.

Follow Cheryl Baehr on Twitter at @CherylABaehr. E-mail the author at Cheryl.Baehr@RiverfrontTimes.com.






Location Info

Three Flags Tavern

4940 Southwest Ave, St. Louis, MO

Category: Music

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1 comments
fmsmith1955
fmsmith1955

It is not just the Lobster roll. We tried to have lunch at 1:15 on Sat May 31st. We walked in and the staff looked shell shocked. I looked around and it wasn't a third full. 

We sat at the bar and the bartender told us that Ian's review came out in the Post Friday and they had been really busy Friday night and never recovered. They couldn't make fries because they were out of potatoes (In my head, I'm thinking Schnucks is up here and Restaurant Depot down there..).


Right after we sat down, they started telling people at the door that they were out of food and shutting down the kitchen to see if they could find enough supplies to serve dinner. Not "hey sorry, your welcome to walk around, have a drink" but more like "if I could lock the door, I would" tone.

We had a drink and split a club sandwich - the last thing they could cobble together in the kitchen (it took 30 minutes). As we were leaving, he told us we should probably wait a month before we come back on a weekend because they would be too busy. First time I have ever been told by a restaurant to not come back for a month. Hopefully, they are better prepared for your review.

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