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The Kitchen Sink's Sweet Potato Fries: A Taste of Thanksgiving In Each Bite

Categories: Sugar High

Welcome to Sugar High, a series devoted solely to spotlighting the best ways to sate a sweet tooth in St. Louis. We'll sample the best the city has to offer at restaurants, bakeries and holes-in-the-wall, and provide some insight on how these confections are made along the way.

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The Kitchen Sink's sweet potato fries. | Photos by Mabel Suen
Servers at the Kitchen Sink (255 Union Boulevard; 314-454-1551) will likely forewarn guests who order it: "Have you had our sweet fries before?" The Cajun-themed restaurant's take on the hand-cut fry comes out way different than the traditional plain jane. Coated in a syrupy marshmallow glaze, they encapsulate a Thanksgiving casserole in a convenient finger food that's more suited as a dessert than as a side.

See also: First Look: The Kitchen Sink Debuts Expanded Space and Menu

Named the best sweet potato fries in RFT's best of St. Louis 2013, a basket of the sweet starch that's been on the board since the restaurant opened will set guests back only a few bucks. Like the rest of his menu, chef-owner Anthony Ellerson Jr. came up with the dish based on intuition.

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The Kitchen Sink's logo on the front of the restaurant.
The fries start out on the cutting board, sliced from fresh sweet potatoes. Before a dip in the fryer, it takes a light floury coating that lends crispiness to every corner, even after a generous glaze of melted marshmallow and brown sugar. Some cinnamon and nutmeg spice it up, making this dish an addictive, comforting treat that's reminiscent of the holidays and available year-round.

Fans of traditional dessert can find those here, too. The Kitchen Sink also offers bread pudding and turtle cake -- a German-chocolate style cake with caramel, chocolate chips and pecans. And just to keep things adventurous, Ellerson also features "funnel cake fries" with a requisite dusting of powdered sugar, served with house-made strawberry habanero jam.

Previously on Sugar High:
- Giovanni's Kitchen's Panna Cotta Trio
- Crepes Etc.'s Crepe Cake
- Cafe Ventana's Beignets
- Frida's Raspberry-Chocolate Avocado Mousse
- India Palace's Gulab Jamun
- Melt's "Violet Beauregarde" Waffle
- Brevan's Patisserie's "Brendan"
- Winslow's Home's Chocolate Cake with Espresso Meringue
- La Patisserie Chouquette's Eclair
- Black Bear Bakery's Raspberry Oat Bar
- Gelateria's London Fog Gelato
- 4 Seasons Bakery's German Cheesecake
- Libertine's "Candy Bar"
- Cleveland-Heath's Old Fashioned Cherry Pie
- Schlafly Tap Room and Bottleworks' Sticky Toffee Pudding

We're always looking for some sweet ideas. E-mail the author at mabel.suen@riverfronttimes.com.


Location Info

The Kitchen Sink

255 Union Boulevard, St. Louis, MO

Category: Restaurant

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5 comments
Zac Nevill
Zac Nevill

They have a sick food challenge too. Pretty sure Kyle "The Hammer" Hanner still holds that title

Brian Sanders Johnson
Brian Sanders Johnson

If you haven't been to The Kitchen Sink you must go. I have had almost everything on the menu (excluding breakfast) and I have never been disappointed. Their food is amazing and you always leave full. Shrimp and Grits!

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