This is part three of Natalie Mclaury's Chef's Choice profile of Wes Johnson of Salt. Part one can be found here. Part two, a Q&A with Johnson, is published here.
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| Savannah Dodd |
The secret to Chef Wes Johnson's art is building his menu around ingredients. Rather than working to create a recipe, Johnson starts with a single element and determines how it can be used, experimenting until a menu item is formed. It is this method that allows him to take advantage of Salt's (4356 Lindell Boulevard, 314-932-5787)locavore philosophy--his parameters are set by the ingredients available to him, dependent on factors like weather and seasonality.
Johnson's ingredient of choice? Pork. Although the menu at Salt is constantly
evolving, pork makes frequent appearances throughout. This stems from Johnson's
belief that pork is more versatile, fun and accepted than other meats, at least when
it comes to fat.
The pork and fennel meatballs are a menu constant at Salt. Served with a blackberry jam, they epitomize Johnson's idea that simple tastes can make a flavorful dish. In Johnson's eyes, more fat leads to more gratification that allows people to eat less. His advice for home cooks? Never to "fear the fat."
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